North by North-East
Wednesday, August 31st, 2005I know, I should have written this post a few days ago, but there is so much going on in my life at the moment that it’s a bit hard to stare at the computer and write while there are so many other more exciting and engaging things to do around here … so, finally, here we go.
Touchdown! I arrived to Jyväskylä on Saturday night. Yes, it was a long trip considering that both Slovenia and Finland are in Europe, but time wasn’t money so the trip with Ryanair, Appartmenthaus zum Hahn and VR costed me roughly two days and 120 Euros (instead of one day and 800 Euros if I were to fly from Ljubljana to Jyväskylä). The journey itself was nothing extraordinary: late planes, punctual trains and lots of waiting. The decision to fly to Tampere and then take the train to Jyväskylä wasn’t bad at all because I first got to see Finland from the air and then enjoyed the countryside from the ground.
Actually, before I go on here are my immediate impressions and associations about Finland and Finns (after being here for a few days): reserved but very friendly, language challenge, lots of space, green, tidiness, expensive and definitely, water, and lots of it too … in all forms and directions.
Jyväskylä is located in the central Finnish region also known as lakeland. Now, this is interesting, because Finland is full of lakes, so from the perspective of practically any visitor, whole Finland could be called lakeland. It’s really hard to believe, but there are 180.000 lakes in Finland. There are numerous lakes in and around Jyväskylä, which also means that there is one right next to the building where I live. One might wonder where does all this water come from, but once you spend a few hours here, you simply cannot miss the biggest source of lake water: it rains on and off every single day. Even so that practically no matter how hard it rains, there are a lot of people walking on the streets who simply don’t pay attention to all this rain. At first it looks weird to see people strolling without umbrellas through the city while the rain is literally pouring on them. But you do get used to all this water pretty quickly. I can’t wait to see what the real autumn looks like when there’s supposedly even more rain, because, mind you, now it’s still August.
One other thing that made much more lasting impression on me is Finnish language. Although I’ve tried to learn some Finnish while I was still back in Ljubljana, I think that no matter how hard I tried back then I’d still be stumped upon arrival. It is downright amazing how different this language is; it doesn’t even sound familiar and on top of that Finns speak it in quite peculiar manner which makes it practically impossible to distinguish between words. So it is not surprising at all that they have a hard time with consistency in writing. Also, I have never seen so many meaningful long words in my life: they quite easily reach 20 characters and beyond. So what I am doing right now is learning how to read completely from scratch. All my Finish friends are laughing their asses of when I am tackling one word at a time, almost a letter at a time - and on top of this not even pronouncing words correctly. But I think we are both having a great time: they get a good laugh and I get to learn something from their linguistical guidance.
Now, as far as their silence and reservedness is concerned: yes, they are a bit quiet and reserved, but when approached can be very friendly and helpful. But, for example, when I walk into a store and try out my Finish on them, they just stare at me and almost ignore me half of the time. As if they want to say that it is OK if you speak English, just don’t touch our language. Finns below 30 are an exception, because they can be very talkative once they engage in a conversation.
Another thing that really stands out is nature and their utmost respect for it. True, Finland is one huge forest by the lake, but they also know how preserve their nature or not do any harm to it in the first place. It starts with their meticulous recycling of trash (they separate it into five categories) and extends to cleanliness. But there is one very important detail: they don’t overdo it, so it isn’t kitsch like in some Alpine countries like Austria and Switzerland.
But life has a price tag here, and a hefty one too. Some prices are just obnoxious. Here are a few examples: a beer in a pub can cost you 4,5 Euros, a packet of cigarettes is anywhere from 2 to 5 Euros, daily newspaper 2 Euros, a bottle of water 1,5 Euros, a liter of gasoline 1,3 Euros, rent for a 24 sq m apartment in Jyväskylä runs from 350 Euros on, and so on. Finns seem to be happy and relaxed people in spite of all those expanses because it looks like they earn enough so they can afford to live a normal life here.
Although I’ve been in Finland only four days now, I must say that so far I really like it here. The nature is spectacular, people are friendly and relaxed, the city is rather quiet and it’s extremely easy to get all sorts of bureaucratic things done in an instant. It’s amazing how easy life can be if there are no ill intentions, greed or envy.
Well, that’s it for now. Check back in a few days when I’ll write more about my continuing Finnish experience. And in meantime I’ll also upload a few photos, because I know that some of you out there are anxious to see those.
Mladen

